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34 Ford build
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UGLY OLDS
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PostPosted: Sun, Jan 25 2015, 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frank ....
Does that bracket for the rear upper bars attach to the axle by using the top bolts on the third member ??? Will that be strong enough for the axle twisting & etc ??

Do you use regular grade 8 hardware or are longer third member mounting bolts available ??

On the oil fill issue ...Why not drill & tap the third member for a fill plug ???

Just wonderin' ....

Bob .... Wink

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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Sun, Jan 25 2015, 2:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UGLY OLDS wrote:
Frank ....
Does that bracket for the rear upper bars attach to the axle by using the top bolts on the third member ??? Will that be strong enough for the axle twisting & etc ??

Do you use regular grade 8 hardware or are longer third member mounting bolts available ??

On the oil fill issue ...Why not drill & tap the third member for a fill plug ???

Just wonderin' ....

Bob .... Wink


I have mounted the upper bars this way before with no problems on 9" rears. The original bolts are plenty long enough, there are about two threads showing outside the nut.

There is no boss in the third member to tap, and I did not pull the third member, so I used the vent. I filled by OE specs.

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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Tue, Feb 17 2015, 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the suspension done front and rear. I am now working on the Xmember , I made some pieces to replace the original center that was missing. They are bolted in, so the transmission can be removed without pulling the engine. A few more holes to drill, and that will be done. The only thing left to address is the power windows.
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papastoyss
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PostPosted: Wed, Feb 18 2015, 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

enjenjo wrote:
UGLY OLDS wrote:
Frank ....
Does that bracket for the rear upper bars attach to the axle by using the top bolts on the third member ??? Will that be strong enough for the axle twisting & etc ??

Do you use regular grade 8 hardware or are longer third member mounting bolts available ??

On the oil fill issue ...Why not drill & tap the third member for a fill plug ???

Just wonderin' ....

Bob .... Wink


I have mounted the upper bars this way before with no problems on 9" rears. The original bolts are plenty long enough, there are about two threads showing outside the nut.

There is no boss in the third member to tap, and I did not pull the third member, so I used the vent. I filled by OE specs.
"Back in the day" some friends decided to try out the local dragstrip w/a Mustang they thought was fast. They borrowed a 4:56 chunk & when they installed it they found it had no filler plug . They wound up pulling one axle, jacking up that side of the car & filling thru the bearing end of the housing!
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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Sat, Feb 21 2015, 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the new Xmember parts all bolted in today. There was two pieces of 3/8" by 2 1/2" bar stock in the Xmember when I started, the top one was welded in, and the bottom one was bolted in, and acts as the trans mount too. I made some gussets out of 3/16" steel, about 7" wide to fit between the two pieces of bar stock. I cut a hole in each one to open it up for access to other things, and bolted them in place with 4 bolts top and bottom. I then made some angle braces out of 1/4" steel 2 1/2" wide, 16" long, and bolted them to the lower bar, gussets, and to the existing Xmember near the back of the bell housing on each side. The angle braces have one side bent down at 90 degrees to make them stiffer. I think this will be strong enough, ideally I would remove the transmission, and make a new top plate, but there were issues with the battery box, shift linkage, and exhaust, so I did it this way.

The last picture is of the rear end installed, and the pinion angle set correctly, which was impossible before. The bars were binding before you could even get it close, This time I set the rear end at ride height, with the pinion angle correct, and fabricated the bar mounts in that position.

The yoke in the transmission is just to keep the oil from leaking out, it gets a conventional slip yoke when I install the driveshaft. It also works good for checking angles. Very Happy A nice flat face for the angle finder.



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jaybee
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PostPosted: Sun, Feb 22 2015, 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting design...serviceable, solid, simple. It's a little different than most of what you see out there too, which is always fun.
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chimp koose
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PostPosted: Sun, Feb 22 2015, 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That upper 4 bar mount is a nice design . I like that it is a bolt on instead of welding . I wonder if a guy could make a nice looking bolt on lower mount using an existing leaf spring mount . Not for this car but something to think about for a future build.
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PostPosted: Wed, Mar 11 2015, 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chimp koose wrote:
That upper 4 bar mount is a nice design . I like that it is a bolt on instead of welding . I wonder if a guy could make a nice looking bolt on lower mount using an existing leaf spring mount . Not for this car but something to think about for a future build.


I don't see why not. You could adjust the width if need be.

I took apart the drivers door today, this is the first time I had a chance to get back to it. The regulator arms come out of the window track, because it has a cobbled up track on it. Any one know if the doors on a sedan delivery are the same as any other model, since the sedan delivery is not listed in the parts lists I am finding.

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PostPosted: Mon, Apr 27 2015, 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I could not find any tracks that would work in these doors, so I modified the tracks he had to make it work. I then had to make up stops in the track to keep the rollers from popping out.Every thing is now working as it should.

So a couple weeks ago I started it up, let it warm up, and checked things over. Today was a nice day, a little cool, but sunny, so I was going to take it for a test drive. It will start, but as so as the ignition is released to the run position, it dies. It has power at the ignition switch, and at the fuse box, but nothing is getting to the coil. So I have to dig further into it to find the problem. I never touched any of this, so it has me puzzled.

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kb426
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PostPosted: Mon, Apr 27 2015, 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why is it that gremlins and elves work overtime to wreck things but never help with anything constructive! There must be a lot of them because most have the same stories.
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PostPosted: Tue, Apr 28 2015, 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

enjenjo wrote:
Well, I could not find any tracks that would work in these doors, so I modified the tracks he had to make it work. I then had to make up stops in the track to keep the rollers from popping out.Every thing is now working as it should.

So a couple weeks ago I started it up, let it warm up, and checked things over. Today was a nice day, a little cool, but sunny, so I was going to take it for a test drive. It will start, but as so as the ignition is released to the run position, it dies. It has power at the ignition switch, and at the fuse box, but nothing is getting to the coil. So I have to dig further into it to find the problem. I never touched any of this, so it has me puzzled.


Ballast resistor??

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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Tue, Apr 28 2015, 7:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rrumbler wrote:
enjenjo wrote:
Well, I could not find any tracks that would work in these doors, so I modified the tracks he had to make it work. I then had to make up stops in the track to keep the rollers from popping out.Every thing is now working as it should.

So a couple weeks ago I started it up, let it warm up, and checked things over. Today was a nice day, a little cool, but sunny, so I was going to take it for a test drive. It will start, but as so as the ignition is released to the run position, it dies. It has power at the ignition switch, and at the fuse box, but nothing is getting to the coil. So I have to dig further into it to find the problem. I never touched any of this, so it has me puzzled.


Ballast resistor??


There is none, electronic ignition.

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PostPosted: Tue, Apr 28 2015, 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fixed it. There was a bad crimp on the wire to the coil at the fuse. I have run into this before with E Z wire harnesses. So if you use one, check all the crimps before you install it.
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manyolkars
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PostPosted: Tue, Apr 28 2015, 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

enjenjo wrote:
kb426 wrote:
How many more items will you find? Was this a high mileage car or one built from used parts?


The car sat for about 15 years without moving. It was put back in service after that without any thing cleaned or changed outside of the fuel system. I am addressing those things now.

Steering problem may be a difference in length of wheel base so measure both sides
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enjenjo
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PostPosted: Tue, Apr 28 2015, 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

manyolkars wrote:
enjenjo wrote:
kb426 wrote:
How many more items will you find? Was this a high mileage car or one built from used parts?


The car sat for about 15 years without moving. It was put back in service after that without any thing cleaned or changed outside of the fuel system. I am addressing those things now.

Steering problem may be a difference in length of wheel base so measure both sides


That it was, more than an inch. I took it out and drive it today, drives much better, no shake in the front end.

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