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Hoist Question???

 
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40
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 19 2015, 12:30 am    Post subject: Hoist Question??? Reply with quote

Looking for some input on preparing my new shop for installation of a 2 post lift.Once again,we've sold our house....been in this one almost 2 years.... and will be building a new one sometime down the road if/when time permits.In the meantime,I have to get a new shop built to house us and the cars until then.New owners move in June 1st! The new shop will be 60' X 100',will contain living quarters which will be converted to offices/guest house etc after the new home is built.I have a 4-post lift but would also like to add a 2-post to the new shop.My question.....What do I need to plan for this and do all of the 2-posts have to be anchored to the floor? I am pouring the new shop floor 6" thick and will install a 2' on center 1/2" rebar grid.....I am assuming that will be sufficient? My dilemma is I really don't know where I want it installed for sure......can I just lag it to the floor later?Part of the building will have 14' sidewalls and part 10'......I assume 10' wont be enough height to adequately use the 2-post? I have built dozens of shops but always seem to see something that I would have liked to have added after the fact......Any suggestions you guys have would be greatly appreciated.After moving about 16 times in the 40+ years we've been married......the wife says this is it so I want to get it right.Thanks and Look forward to your comments.
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wayne petty
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 19 2015, 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is one option if you don't know where to install it.. its not a cheep idea.. have you ever seen the big steel plates they use to cover excavations in the street.. something like that to mount your 2 post hoist to... will it be large enough to stop from tipping?? that is up to you.. how will you move it around.. winches.. tractor.. ????

could you mount it to a smaller plate with outrigger beams.. so its still moveable.. this time perhaps easier.. and perhaps a lot cheaper.. if you get it in a spot you like.. you could always unbolt the outriggers and bolt the plate down.. both of these also avoid the THIN Slab issues.. and the need to cut and dig proper foundations..

i tried a bunch of years ago to get a friend to install landing gear on his double long trailer and weld on a 2 post lift.. so he can drag the cars on with a winch and hoist them up where ever he is to work on them. then the bottom fell out of the economy..

just curious.. when you prepping to pour your slab.. are you going to lay some pieces of plastic pipe across it with ends sticking thru the forms.. so after you break the forms away.. you can stick either steel cables or long pieces of all thread thru and have a post tensioned slab.. preventing any cracks in the future..

i am taking that you are going to carve out some of the area around the garage door.. so its a little thicker there.. only 2 inches or so might make a huge difference in strength in the most used area without breaking the bank..

many years ago.. toppings were blended with various stuff .. including sodium silicate... this was done for gas station island driveways making an oil and fuel resistant surface.. the concrete companies did not like this as it contaminated their trucks for regular deliveries... without needing to tumble a truck full of crushed rock and water for a while.

are you going to create a 6" to 12" curb around the edge of your slab so your shop walls shop walls mount on top of that.. so there is no water or spills that get under the footers.. also prevents some flooding outside the shop from flowing under the footing of the walls.

is your main slab going to include extended areas... outside the door ways... so there is not a joint right in the doorway..

will you when designing your forms. for the places where the driveway will continue... have a block on the form so it creates a Tongue and groove effect for the next section to be poured.. so it interlocks.. cannot settle on one side or the other.

any chance of floor drains across the inside of the door openings to an oil separator tank outside.. so no oil can escape. quarter turn valves .. probably brass natural gas type of valves would be good for this burial in the cement with an access for a water meter key.. no gaskets.. just a tapered fit.. so it can be OFF most of the time..

these are just ideas.. thoughts.. better to be said up front than after you have poured your slab.. its your garage..

just a few more thoughts..

are you going to use steel studs or wood..

with steel.. and with wood.. are you going to glue the exterior panels and roof panels to the studs .. so they are really really tightly attached??

with wood structure.. are you going to lay out the framing.. mark it.. then add glue to the ends of the studs and use screws instead of nails.. or a combo.. think deck screws.. again with the exterior panels and roof panels.. glued in place like floor sheathing is .. hurricane straps.. tie downs to the roof joists thru the walls into the foundation..

plus find construction recycling centers.. or RE-Stores and find exterior doors for your side ingress.. hung on steel door frames.. or used fire rated doors in frames. make it harder for bandits.. if that is an issue in your area..

you might get a kick out of some regs for los angeles..

http://www.buildsite.com/pdf/simpsonstrongtie/Simpson-Strong-Tie-RR-251 19-A34-A35-A35F-FC-HH-J-JP-L-NCA-NBA-SA-HSA-ST-FHA-MST-MSTI-HST-TB-VB-V BP-THMA-WB-CS16-timber-connectors-City-of-Los-Angeles-Approval-308480.p df

where we are expecting a MASSIVE quake.. my sisters husband did this type of stuff to their house in 1990.. when it was just being framed.. it went thru the northridge quake without a single crack or damage other than dishes that fell out of the cabinets.. even though they were both thrown into the air several times during the beginning of the quake.. and the other 200+ homes built by the same crew were all severally damaged during the north ridge quake. it tossed them several feet above their bed..
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 19 2015, 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My hoist is 2 post, 9k rating. It required 2500# concrete 4 inches thick minimum

3/4 inch anchors are used. I believe the design requires all 2 post hoist to bolted to floor

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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 19 2015, 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a few bucks more than a two post, you can get a four post that you can move around the shop.
I saw a two post where the owner welded longer plates to each side (end) of the existing feet. Giving it a bigger (longer) foot print to stop the tipping. It was anchored to the floor.
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 19 2015, 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With a 6" slab, and rebar, you are good to go with a two post just about anywhere you want. Most two posts require at least 11 foot, 12 is better.

There are some glue in place anchors that fit flush with the floor so if you decide to move it you just insert a plug into the anchor.

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papastoyss
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 19 2015, 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 2 post in my home shop I bought from Complete Hydraulics in Indiana. It's much more stable than the 9,000 lb. lifts we had in our commercial shop. I've had a Chevy Suburban on it, no problem. My home shop is a pole barn type bld. spec'd w/12 ft eaves but I wound up boxing in between 2 of the trusses to get full height of the lift.A friend & I set the lift up using a boom pole on my tractor in just a few hours. If you ever need to move the lift you could cut off the anchor bolts flush w/the floor & fill around the studs with grout.
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PostPosted: Sun, Apr 19 2015, 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info/suggestions.The shop will be a stick framed building, S4 structural 2X6 Studs,16" on center,1/2" sheathing on the walls,5/8" on the roof....all covered in vertical steel.I will be using an engineered truss roof system 2'on center.The inside walls and ceiling will be insulated with hi efficiency blown-in cellulose and covered with metal.The foundation will consist of a 24" wide,48" deep trench footing which will contain a steel grid that will then be connected to the steel grid in the floor.This should prevent any movement due to frost and will keep the floor dry and warm.I am not sure about the floor drain situation at present.....I bought a large tract of land outside the city to develope into several home sites and as it stands now,there is city water available but no sewer so I may be installing a septic system depending on my costs to extend the city sewer which would include me building a lift station.Probably not a good idea to run a floor drain into my septic.

Wayne,Those are some crazy codes in your area......Sounds like when the earth begins to shake,would be well worth the extra effort/costs though.It has only been in the last few years that our local codes have began to require hurricane rafter ties though I have used them for the last 30+ years.We do glue our floor systems together but have never glued the wall sheathing.....probably not a bad idea but not sure needed in our area.We use 1/2" stainless anchor bolts 3' on center to secure the building to the foundation.

I have a 12,000# 4-post lift but seems to me,a 2-post would also come in handy from time to time.My 4-post can be moved on casters but I'm thinking I will bolt the 2-post in a permanant location....not sure I'd feel safe under it otherwise. It may not matter ,with this new undertaking I'm not sure I'll have time to work on anything anyway!My wife asked me the other day if I ever looked in the mirror......I said no.....She said " Well,if you did,you'd realize you're not 20 years old anymore and that you're almost 60 and should be thinking about retirement instead of starting another years long project". My resonse was " Guess I just won't look in the mirror then". She may be right......She usually is.....Oh Well!

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PostPosted: Mon, Apr 20 2015, 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have friends that have both 4 post and 2 post lifts. From what I've seen, the 2 post is by far the most useful when working on anything. My reply to your wife is: don't stop until you're dead! You might live 20 more years. Why would you slow down until you can't go? If I ever meet your wife, she'll probably hurt me. Smile
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PostPosted: Mon, Apr 20 2015, 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

40 wrote:
My wife asked me the other day if I ever looked in the mirror......I said no.....She said " Well,if you did,you'd realize you're not 20 years old anymore and that you're almost 60 and should be thinking about retirement instead of starting another years long project". My resonse was " Guess I just won't look in the mirror then". She may be right......She usually is.....Oh Well!


Ask her if she'd rather you hang around the house and under her feet when you retire or be out working on a project that you enjoy
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PostPosted: Mon, Apr 20 2015, 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is not the age, it is the mileage on the body.

I fight the miles on my tired body each day. My aches n pains are nothing to other folks problems.

Keep going.

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PostPosted: Tue, Apr 21 2015, 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

" Almost 60 & thinking about retirement" Question Shocked
Don't even think about slowing down, let alone refinement....

Retirement is for old people ...Wait...I'm there .. Confused

Time to shuffle to the shop ..... Rolling Eyes

Bob.... Wink

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PostPosted: Wed, Apr 22 2015, 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Daryle. Didn't even see the last house. Car show in Logan on May 30th. I think Tom and Sue are going to come. I believe they have a sports car now. I f this is going to be your last house, you may need to build that 37....
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PostPosted: Wed, Apr 22 2015, 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikej wrote:
Hi Daryle. Didn't even see the last house. Car show in Logan on May 30th. I think Tom and Sue are going to come. I believe they have a sports car now. I f this is going to be your last house, you may need to build that 37....


Well......That's a good excuse for you and the family to make a road trip and drive up for a visit! We'll only be here till the first week of June.....Then,we'll be......... somewhere! Decided to do my own developement.....the covenants etc are getting so crazy out here that I had to go......Now I can make my own crazy rules. Rule #1......There are no Damned Rules! I think the wife works the weekend of the 30th but I may sneak down for a bit.It's hard to believe but Josh is graduating on May 17th.....You guys should be getting an announcement in the mail soon.Would be good to see you guys if you can make it up.
Looks like I'll have to drag that old 37 up on the trailer and move it one more time.....Need to get started on it so I can see it move under its own power again before I croak! Does Tom still have the 36 Ford he was working on? Haven't seen those two for a long time......Perhaps we can get together at the show.

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PostPosted: Thu, Apr 23 2015, 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Daryle, I will give you a call in the next day or so. We just got the invite yesterday. We may come up to see Josh all grown up...
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PostPosted: Thu, Apr 23 2015, 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kb426 wrote:
I have friends that have both 4 post and 2 post lifts. From what I've seen, the 2 post is by far the most useful when working on anything. My reply to your wife is: don't stop until you're dead! You might live 20 more years. Why would you slow down until you can't go? If I ever meet your wife, she'll probably hurt me. Smile
The primary downside to a 2 post is it's a PIA if you have to do any work inside the car while it's on the lift. For me, that's a cheap trade-off for the better underside/ suspension access.
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wayne petty
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PostPosted: Fri, Jun 12 2015, 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the reason i am so critical on proper installation..

http://i.imgur.com/AJzmis9.jpg
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